Wednesday, November 21, 2012
Friday, November 16, 2012
Class List and Contact Info
Thanks everybody for a wonderful class! It was so fantastic working with all of you! This blog will stay up if you ever want any of the information from the class. And feel free to post other information that I may have neglected to document. Safe travels everyone!
Jenny Mendes
www.jennymendes.com
jennymendes@hotmail.com
home- 440-729-4933
Brandi Jessup
www.brandijessup.com
BrandiJessup@gmail.com
307-272-8388
Yolanda Walker
Ywalker26@gmail.com
704-287-7460
Mike Newman
Lynne Osterman
O_Lynne@yahoo.com
941-313-0096
Victoria Dawes
victoriadawes@gmail.com
Julie Guyot
www.julieguyot.com
Julieguyot@yahoo.com
850-445- 0085
Lisa Joerling
Lisajoerling@gmail.com
828-765-5392
Don Reynolds
Dreynolds1031@hotmail.com
203-727-5900
Anita Blackwell
anita.blackwell@yahoo.com
828-765-1937
Kari Thurman
Kari.Thurman@gmail.com
810-772-1566
Amber Chambers
amberchambersmalbrough@gmail.com
Tuesday, November 13, 2012
Slip Recipes!
Pilcher White Slip:
Ball Clay 25
EPK 25
Silica 25
Cornwall 12.5
Neph Sy 12.5
Zircopax 5
Frit 3124 5
Julie's Lowfire Vitreous Slip
Talc 15
Frit 3124 10
Neph Sy 15
Ball Clay 40
EPK 20
Ball Clay 25
EPK 25
Silica 25
Cornwall 12.5
Neph Sy 12.5
Zircopax 5
Frit 3124 5
Julie's Lowfire Vitreous Slip
Talc 15
Frit 3124 10
Neph Sy 15
Ball Clay 40
EPK 20
Washes
Here are all of the washes...
Gertsley Borate: (real Glossy, kind of acts like a glaze)
2:1 Water to Borate
Borax: (speckled shiny spots)
4:1 Water to Borax
Lithium: (eats through sig and underglaze. kind of like rust)
4:1 Water to Lithium
Soda Ash: (atmospheric, kind of speckley spots)
light: 6:1 Water to soda ash
heavier: 3:1 Water to soda ash
We also used Manganese, copper carb, black copper oxide and red iron oxide mixed with water as washes.
You can also try putting lithium in your slip. It will eat through the sig from underneath. This is much more subtle than applying a wash directly to the surface. try 2tsp lithium to 1.5 cups of slip
Gertsley Borate: (real Glossy, kind of acts like a glaze)
2:1 Water to Borate
Borax: (speckled shiny spots)
4:1 Water to Borax
Lithium: (eats through sig and underglaze. kind of like rust)
4:1 Water to Lithium
Soda Ash: (atmospheric, kind of speckley spots)
light: 6:1 Water to soda ash
heavier: 3:1 Water to soda ash
We also used Manganese, copper carb, black copper oxide and red iron oxide mixed with water as washes.
You can also try putting lithium in your slip. It will eat through the sig from underneath. This is much more subtle than applying a wash directly to the surface. try 2tsp lithium to 1.5 cups of slip
Terra Sig: colors and amounts
Here all all of the colors we used in the class. Stain names and numbers. All stains are Mason stains. We used XX Sagar, and Red Art as bases. To make the Sig mix 20 lbs of water with 10 lbs of clay and a tbsp or so sodium silicate. Mix well with a drill then let it sit for at least 1 day until it separates. The heavy particles will sink to the bottom, and the thin stuff on top is the Sig. Then mix 1.5 cups of the sig with desired colorant, and a few drops of Muriatic acid. Add a drop at a time then mix. Be careful not to add too much, the acid can gel your sig really quickly.
Red Art
Clover Pink 6023- 3tsp
Chartreuse 6236- 1 tsp
Peacock green -2 tsp
Leaf green -3 tsp
Burnt Umber- 5 tsp
Deep orchid – 2 tsp
Cobalt blue- 2 ½ tsp
Mazerine blue- 2tsp
XX Saggar
Walnut Brown 2 tsp
Sage- 2 ½ tsp
Peacock 6266 - 1tsp
#4 sig-Praseodymium 6450 - 3tsp, Crocus martis -3tsp
Praseodymium yellow- 3 tsp
Mint green 6271- 2 1.2 tsp
Florentine 6202- 2 tsp
Zirconium Yellow – 3 tsp
Turquoise 6364- 2 ½ tsp
Dark lavender 3610- 1 ½ tsp
Naples Yellow- 3 tsp
Deep blue orchid- 3 tsp
Victoria green 6204- 2 tsp
Walnut Brown- tsp
Mazerine blue- 1tsp(light) 2tsp (dark)
Mediterranean blue 6343- 3tsp
Wedgwood 6310- 2 ½ tsp
Teal 6305- 2 tsp
Chrome tin violet 6304- 3 tsp
Pansy Purple 6385- 3 tsp
Saturn Orange 6121- 3 tsp
Flesh 6098- 2 tsp
Dark Yellow 6402- 2 tsp
Anita's Yellow: Vanadium Yellow –3 tsp, Zirconium yellow 3 tsp
6280 Avocado – 3 tsp
Brandi's Lime Green: 1 Tbsp praseodymium yellow, ¼ tsp peacock green
Brandi's Grassy Green: 1 Tbsp praseodymium yellow, ¼ tsp leaf green
Lobster 6026- 2 ½ Tbsp
Robins egg blue 6376 – 2 ½ tsp
French Green 6219- 1 tsp
Crimson 6004 – 3tsp
We also used Barnard sig for a dark chocolatey sig, and Newman Red Sig for an orangey red.
Red Art
Clover Pink 6023- 3tsp
Chartreuse 6236- 1 tsp
Peacock green -2 tsp
Leaf green -3 tsp
Burnt Umber- 5 tsp
Deep orchid – 2 tsp
Cobalt blue- 2 ½ tsp
Mazerine blue- 2tsp
XX Saggar
Walnut Brown 2 tsp
Sage- 2 ½ tsp
Peacock 6266 - 1tsp
#4 sig-Praseodymium 6450 - 3tsp, Crocus martis -3tsp
Praseodymium yellow- 3 tsp
Mint green 6271- 2 1.2 tsp
Florentine 6202- 2 tsp
Zirconium Yellow – 3 tsp
Turquoise 6364- 2 ½ tsp
Dark lavender 3610- 1 ½ tsp
Naples Yellow- 3 tsp
Deep blue orchid- 3 tsp
Victoria green 6204- 2 tsp
Walnut Brown- tsp
Mazerine blue- 1tsp(light) 2tsp (dark)
Mediterranean blue 6343- 3tsp
Wedgwood 6310- 2 ½ tsp
Teal 6305- 2 tsp
Chrome tin violet 6304- 3 tsp
Pansy Purple 6385- 3 tsp
Saturn Orange 6121- 3 tsp
Flesh 6098- 2 tsp
Dark Yellow 6402- 2 tsp
Anita's Yellow: Vanadium Yellow –3 tsp, Zirconium yellow 3 tsp
6280 Avocado – 3 tsp
Brandi's Lime Green: 1 Tbsp praseodymium yellow, ¼ tsp peacock green
Brandi's Grassy Green: 1 Tbsp praseodymium yellow, ¼ tsp leaf green
Lobster 6026- 2 ½ Tbsp
Robins egg blue 6376 – 2 ½ tsp
French Green 6219- 1 tsp
Crimson 6004 – 3tsp
We also used Barnard sig for a dark chocolatey sig, and Newman Red Sig for an orangey red.
Friday, November 2, 2012
Monday, October 29, 2012
Shoko Teruyama Glaze Recipes
Slip (Base) Cone 04
EPK 28
Ball Clay 28
Flint 22
Frit 3124 22
(White add 5% zircopax)
(Blue Green add 3% copper carb)
Clear Glaze Base Cone 04
Gertsley Borate 55
EPK 30
Flint 15
Green add 8% copper carb
Warm Yellow add 6% Rutile
Blue add 1% cobalt carb
Turquoise add 4% Cerdic stain Turquoise #3215
Red Add 4% Cerdic stain Intense Red #1351
Orange add 4% Cerdic stain #239616
Yellow add 4% Vanadium Yellow Mason Stain #6404
Purple add 4% Purple Mason Stain #6304
Amber Glaze Cone 04
Gertsley Borate 38
Custer 37
Barium Carb. 14
Flint 11
-----------------------------------
Bentonite 1%
Black Iron Oxide 7%
Jacquies Base Satin cone 05
Gertsley Borate 38
Lithium Carb 10
Neph Sy 5
EPK 5
Flint 42
---------------------------------------
bentonite 1%
Pale Green add .25% chrome
Irridescent Yellow add 3% Vanadium Mason Stain and 2.5% yellow ochre
Flash o' Pink add 3% rutile and 10% tin
Warm White add 10% tin and 2% Red Iron Oxide
Beige add 10% tin and 4% Red Iron Oxide
EPK 28
Ball Clay 28
Flint 22
Frit 3124 22
(White add 5% zircopax)
(Blue Green add 3% copper carb)
Clear Glaze Base Cone 04
Gertsley Borate 55
EPK 30
Flint 15
Green add 8% copper carb
Warm Yellow add 6% Rutile
Blue add 1% cobalt carb
Turquoise add 4% Cerdic stain Turquoise #3215
Red Add 4% Cerdic stain Intense Red #1351
Orange add 4% Cerdic stain #239616
Yellow add 4% Vanadium Yellow Mason Stain #6404
Purple add 4% Purple Mason Stain #6304
Amber Glaze Cone 04
Gertsley Borate 38
Custer 37
Barium Carb. 14
Flint 11
-----------------------------------
Bentonite 1%
Black Iron Oxide 7%
Jacquies Base Satin cone 05
Gertsley Borate 38
Lithium Carb 10
Neph Sy 5
EPK 5
Flint 42
---------------------------------------
bentonite 1%
Pale Green add .25% chrome
Irridescent Yellow add 3% Vanadium Mason Stain and 2.5% yellow ochre
Flash o' Pink add 3% rutile and 10% tin
Warm White add 10% tin and 2% Red Iron Oxide
Beige add 10% tin and 4% Red Iron Oxide
Liz Quackenbush Maiolica Glaze
Cone 04 Maiolica Glaze
FRIT 3124-------------------140
OM4 BALL--------------------14
ZIRCOPAX -------------------20
FRIT3110--------------------20
BENTONITE-------------------10
SILICA----------------------35
THE GLAZE SHOULD BE MIXED UP VERY THICK...JUST BARELY FLUID, LIKE A MELTED MILK SHAKE. If it is mixed too thin it will sink like a rock. If mixed too thick the air will not be released and the pin holes will still be present. Mix it dry and then sieve in 60 or 80 mesh and put the lid on and call it a day. The Glaze should sit for at least a week before you use it so all the air is released and you don't get crazy pin holes.
K Have Fun!
Monday, October 15, 2012
Tuesday, October 9, 2012
A poem by Wendell Berry
The Real Work
It may be that when we no longer know what to do
we have come to our real work,
and that when we no longer know which way to go
we have come to our real journey.
The mind that is not baffled is not employed.
The impeded stream is the one that sings.
Thursday, October 4, 2012
Decal Mania!!!!
A little information about decals before our demo tomorrow...
Decals have been around for a really long time (first used around 1750). They were historically made from copper plate etchings then transferred to tissue paper or glue which was then applied to pots in a long labor intensive process. Fortunately things are much easier now. There are still quite a few kinds of decals (ceramic, glass, midrange, in glaze, enamel, metallic, etc.) most of which are waterslide and easy to apply and to have made. If you want more information on types of decals try this website...http://www.ceramicdecals.org.
We're going to be using iron decals which are technically 'in glaze' type decals. They fire at a much higher temperature than most ceramic decals so they melt into the glaze rather than sitting on the surface. Iron decals can be printed on most HP laser jet printers. They generally fire between cone 010 and 7, and the color will change depending on the temperature. Iron decals will generally be brown, sepia, or purplish, but you should test them to see how hot the decals from your printer need to be to get the color you want.
You can use any photo or document program to design your decals. cram the images together on a sheet to save paper and money. You'll need to buy special decal paper to use in your printer which can be purchased at www.belldecal.com. Your paper will have instructions on how to print.
Once you've printed your decals let the ink dry and you can use them like any manufactured waterslide decals.
If you want colored decals your best bet is to order them. Bell decal is a good resource for this as well. They can make any image, photo, or original piece of artwork into a decal sheet. You can also order full sheets of color and cut out your own shapes. These decals are applied the same way as the iron decals, but fire much lower (generally between 022 and 017).
If you want to follow the rules and have a really clean decal you want to bisque and glaze the surface first. a white or clear surface is best if you don't want the color distorted. If you want to get crazy you can apply the decals to greenware or bisque ware without glaze. You can put glaze, sig, or underglaze over top of the decals once they are fired, I would suggest firing them first though.
Yay! Have Fun!
Decals have been around for a really long time (first used around 1750). They were historically made from copper plate etchings then transferred to tissue paper or glue which was then applied to pots in a long labor intensive process. Fortunately things are much easier now. There are still quite a few kinds of decals (ceramic, glass, midrange, in glaze, enamel, metallic, etc.) most of which are waterslide and easy to apply and to have made. If you want more information on types of decals try this website...http://www.ceramicdecals.org.
We're going to be using iron decals which are technically 'in glaze' type decals. They fire at a much higher temperature than most ceramic decals so they melt into the glaze rather than sitting on the surface. Iron decals can be printed on most HP laser jet printers. They generally fire between cone 010 and 7, and the color will change depending on the temperature. Iron decals will generally be brown, sepia, or purplish, but you should test them to see how hot the decals from your printer need to be to get the color you want.
You can use any photo or document program to design your decals. cram the images together on a sheet to save paper and money. You'll need to buy special decal paper to use in your printer which can be purchased at www.belldecal.com. Your paper will have instructions on how to print.
Once you've printed your decals let the ink dry and you can use them like any manufactured waterslide decals.
If you want colored decals your best bet is to order them. Bell decal is a good resource for this as well. They can make any image, photo, or original piece of artwork into a decal sheet. You can also order full sheets of color and cut out your own shapes. These decals are applied the same way as the iron decals, but fire much lower (generally between 022 and 017).
If you want to follow the rules and have a really clean decal you want to bisque and glaze the surface first. a white or clear surface is best if you don't want the color distorted. If you want to get crazy you can apply the decals to greenware or bisque ware without glaze. You can put glaze, sig, or underglaze over top of the decals once they are fired, I would suggest firing them first though.
Wednesday, October 3, 2012
Monday, October 1, 2012
Saturday, September 29, 2012
Wednesday, September 26, 2012
Terra Sigillata
Terra sigillata informational handout by Jerry Bennet to use as a reference.
http://www.jerrybennett.net/terrasigillata.html
http://www.jerrybennett.net/terrasigillata.html
Class Terra Sig recipe
We used these recipes mixed in a 5 gallon bucket:
White base
20 pounds water
10 pounds XX Saggar clay
22.7 grams sodium silicate
yields approx 2 gallons of terra sig
settle for at least 24 hours
Red Art Base
20 pounds water
10 pounds clay
22.7 grams sodium silicate
yields approx 2 gallons of terra sig
settle for 6 hours or overnight as needed
White base
20 pounds water
10 pounds XX Saggar clay
22.7 grams sodium silicate
yields approx 2 gallons of terra sig
settle for at least 24 hours
Red Art Base
20 pounds water
10 pounds clay
22.7 grams sodium silicate
yields approx 2 gallons of terra sig
settle for 6 hours or overnight as needed
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