Friday, November 16, 2012

Nancy did it!!!

Class List and Contact Info

Thanks everybody for a wonderful class! It was so fantastic working with all of you! This blog will stay up if you ever want any of the information from the class. And feel free to post other information that I may have neglected to document. Safe travels everyone!

Jenny Mendes
home- 440-729-4933

Brandi Jessup

Yolanda Walker

Mike Newman  
Lynne Osterman

Victoria Dawes

Julie Guyot
850-445- 0085

Lisa Joerling

Don Reynolds

Anita Blackwell

Kari Thurman

Amber Chambers

Tuesday, November 13, 2012

Slip Recipes!

Pilcher White Slip:

Ball Clay         25
EPK                25
Silica               25
Cornwall         12.5
Neph Sy          12.5
Zircopax          5
Frit 3124          5

Julie's Lowfire Vitreous Slip

Talc             15
Frit 3124      10
Neph Sy       15
Ball Clay      40
EPK             20


Here are all of the washes...

Gertsley Borate: (real Glossy, kind of acts like a glaze)
           2:1 Water to Borate

Borax: (speckled shiny spots)
          4:1 Water to Borax

Lithium: (eats through sig and underglaze. kind of like rust)
         4:1 Water to Lithium

Soda Ash: (atmospheric, kind of speckley spots)
        light:  6:1 Water to soda ash
        heavier: 3:1 Water to soda ash

We also used Manganese, copper carb, black copper oxide and red iron oxide mixed with water as washes.

You can also try putting lithium in your slip. It will eat through the sig from underneath. This is much more subtle than applying a wash directly to the surface. try 2tsp lithium to 1.5 cups of slip

Terra Sig: colors and amounts

Here all all of the colors we used in the class. Stain names and numbers. All stains are Mason stains. We used XX Sagar, and Red Art as bases. To make the Sig mix 20 lbs of water with 10 lbs of clay and a tbsp or so sodium silicate. Mix well with a drill then let it sit for at least 1 day until it separates. The heavy particles will sink to the bottom, and the thin stuff on top is the Sig. Then mix 1.5 cups of the sig with desired colorant, and a few drops of Muriatic acid. Add a drop at a time then mix. Be careful not to add too much, the acid can gel your sig really quickly.

Red Art
Clover Pink 6023- 3tsp
Chartreuse 6236-  1 tsp
Peacock green -2 tsp
Leaf green -3 tsp
Burnt Umber- 5 tsp
Deep orchid – 2 tsp
Cobalt blue- 2 ½ tsp
Mazerine blue- 2tsp

XX Saggar
Walnut Brown 2 tsp
Sage- 2 ½ tsp
Peacock 6266 - 1tsp
#4 sig-Praseodymium 6450 - 3tsp, Crocus martis -3tsp
Praseodymium yellow- 3 tsp
Mint green 6271- 2 1.2 tsp
Florentine 6202- 2 tsp
Zirconium Yellow – 3 tsp
Turquoise 6364- 2 ½ tsp
Dark lavender 3610- 1 ½ tsp
Naples Yellow- 3 tsp
Deep blue orchid- 3 tsp
Victoria green 6204- 2 tsp
Walnut Brown- tsp
Mazerine blue- 1tsp(light) 2tsp (dark)
Mediterranean blue 6343- 3tsp
Wedgwood 6310- 2 ½ tsp
Teal 6305- 2 tsp
Chrome tin violet 6304- 3 tsp
Pansy Purple 6385- 3 tsp
Saturn Orange 6121- 3 tsp
Flesh 6098- 2 tsp
Dark Yellow 6402- 2 tsp
Anita's Yellow: Vanadium Yellow –3 tsp,  Zirconium yellow 3 tsp
6280 Avocado – 3 tsp
Brandi's Lime Green: 1 Tbsp praseodymium yellow, ¼ tsp peacock green
Brandi's Grassy Green: 1 Tbsp praseodymium  yellow, ¼ tsp leaf green
Lobster 6026- 2 ½ Tbsp  
Robins egg  blue 6376 – 2 ½ tsp
French Green 6219- 1 tsp
Crimson 6004 – 3tsp

We also used Barnard sig for a dark chocolatey sig, and Newman Red Sig for an orangey red.

Monday, October 29, 2012

Happy Monday From Ai Weiwei!

Shoko Teruyama Glaze Recipes

Slip (Base)       Cone 04

EPK                          28
Ball Clay                   28
Flint                           22
Frit 3124                    22

(White add 5% zircopax)
(Blue Green add 3% copper carb)

Clear Glaze Base     Cone 04

Gertsley Borate                  55
EPK                                   30
Flint                                   15

Green  add 8% copper carb
Warm Yellow add 6% Rutile
Blue   add 1% cobalt carb
Turquoise  add 4% Cerdic stain Turquoise #3215
Red  Add 4% Cerdic stain Intense Red #1351
Orange  add 4%  Cerdic stain #239616
Yellow  add 4% Vanadium Yellow Mason Stain #6404
Purple  add 4% Purple Mason Stain #6304

Amber Glaze       Cone 04

Gertsley Borate              38
Custer                            37
Barium Carb.                 14
Flint                                11
Bentonite                          1%
Black Iron Oxide              7%

Jacquies Base  Satin     cone 05

Gertsley Borate                  38
Lithium Carb                      10
Neph Sy                               5
EPK                                     5
Flint                                    42
bentonite                               1%

Pale Green  add .25% chrome
Irridescent Yellow  add 3% Vanadium Mason Stain and 2.5% yellow ochre
Flash o' Pink  add 3% rutile and 10% tin
Warm White  add 10% tin and 2% Red Iron Oxide
Beige  add 10% tin and 4% Red Iron Oxide

Liz Quackenbush Maiolica Glaze

Cone 04 Maiolica Glaze

FRIT 3124-------------------140
OM4 BALL--------------------14
ZIRCOPAX -------------------20

THE GLAZE SHOULD BE MIXED UP VERY THICK...JUST BARELY FLUID, LIKE A MELTED MILK SHAKE.   If it is mixed too thin it will sink like a rock.  If mixed too thick the air will not be released and the pin holes will still be present.  Mix it dry and then sieve in 60 or 80 mesh and put the lid on and call it a day. The Glaze should sit for at least a week before you use it so all the air is released and you don't get crazy pin holes.

K Have Fun!

Tuesday, October 9, 2012

Brene' Brown The Power of Vulnerability

A poem by Wendell Berry

The Real Work 

It may be that when we no longer know what to do
we have come to our real work,

and that when we no longer know which way to go
we have come to our real journey.

The mind that is not baffled is not employed.

The impeded stream is the one that sings.

Thursday, October 4, 2012

Decal Mania!!!!

A little information about decals before our demo tomorrow...

Decals have been around for a really long time (first used around 1750). They were historically made from copper plate etchings then transferred to tissue paper or glue which was then applied to pots in a long labor intensive process. Fortunately things are much easier now. There are still quite a few kinds of decals (ceramic, glass, midrange, in glaze, enamel, metallic, etc.) most of which are waterslide and easy to apply and to have made. If you want more information on types of decals try this website...

We're going to be using iron decals which are technically 'in glaze' type decals. They fire at a much higher temperature than most ceramic decals so they melt into the glaze rather than sitting on the surface. Iron decals can be printed on most HP laser jet printers. They generally fire between cone 010 and 7, and the color will change depending on the temperature. Iron decals will generally be brown, sepia, or purplish, but you should test them to see how hot the decals from your printer need to be to get the color you want.

You can use any photo or document program to design your decals. cram the images together on a sheet to save paper and money. You'll need to buy special decal paper to use in your printer which can be purchased at Your paper will have instructions on how to print.

Once you've printed your decals let the ink dry and you can use them like any manufactured waterslide decals.

If you want colored decals your best bet is to order them. Bell decal is a good resource for this as well. They can make any image, photo, or original piece of artwork into a decal sheet. You can also order full sheets of color and cut out your own shapes. These decals are applied the same way as the iron decals, but fire much lower (generally between 022 and 017).

If you want to follow the rules and have a really clean decal you want to bisque and glaze the surface first. a white or clear surface is best if you don't want the color distorted. If you want to get crazy you can apply the decals to greenware or bisque ware without glaze. You can put glaze, sig, or underglaze over top of the decals once they are fired, I would suggest firing them first though.

Yay! Have Fun!

Wednesday, September 26, 2012

Terra Sigillata

Terra sigillata informational handout by Jerry Bennet to use as a reference.

Class Terra Sig recipe

 We used these recipes mixed in a 5 gallon bucket:

White base

20 pounds water
10 pounds  XX Saggar clay
22.7 grams sodium silicate
yields approx 2 gallons of terra sig

settle for at least 24 hours

Red Art Base
20 pounds water
10 pounds clay
22.7 grams sodium silicate
yields approx 2 gallons of terra sig

settle for 6 hours or overnight as needed