Monday, October 29, 2012
Shoko Teruyama Glaze Recipes
Slip (Base) Cone 04
EPK 28
Ball Clay 28
Flint 22
Frit 3124 22
(White add 5% zircopax)
(Blue Green add 3% copper carb)
Clear Glaze Base Cone 04
Gertsley Borate 55
EPK 30
Flint 15
Green add 8% copper carb
Warm Yellow add 6% Rutile
Blue add 1% cobalt carb
Turquoise add 4% Cerdic stain Turquoise #3215
Red Add 4% Cerdic stain Intense Red #1351
Orange add 4% Cerdic stain #239616
Yellow add 4% Vanadium Yellow Mason Stain #6404
Purple add 4% Purple Mason Stain #6304
Amber Glaze Cone 04
Gertsley Borate 38
Custer 37
Barium Carb. 14
Flint 11
-----------------------------------
Bentonite 1%
Black Iron Oxide 7%
Jacquies Base Satin cone 05
Gertsley Borate 38
Lithium Carb 10
Neph Sy 5
EPK 5
Flint 42
---------------------------------------
bentonite 1%
Pale Green add .25% chrome
Irridescent Yellow add 3% Vanadium Mason Stain and 2.5% yellow ochre
Flash o' Pink add 3% rutile and 10% tin
Warm White add 10% tin and 2% Red Iron Oxide
Beige add 10% tin and 4% Red Iron Oxide
EPK 28
Ball Clay 28
Flint 22
Frit 3124 22
(White add 5% zircopax)
(Blue Green add 3% copper carb)
Clear Glaze Base Cone 04
Gertsley Borate 55
EPK 30
Flint 15
Green add 8% copper carb
Warm Yellow add 6% Rutile
Blue add 1% cobalt carb
Turquoise add 4% Cerdic stain Turquoise #3215
Red Add 4% Cerdic stain Intense Red #1351
Orange add 4% Cerdic stain #239616
Yellow add 4% Vanadium Yellow Mason Stain #6404
Purple add 4% Purple Mason Stain #6304
Amber Glaze Cone 04
Gertsley Borate 38
Custer 37
Barium Carb. 14
Flint 11
-----------------------------------
Bentonite 1%
Black Iron Oxide 7%
Jacquies Base Satin cone 05
Gertsley Borate 38
Lithium Carb 10
Neph Sy 5
EPK 5
Flint 42
---------------------------------------
bentonite 1%
Pale Green add .25% chrome
Irridescent Yellow add 3% Vanadium Mason Stain and 2.5% yellow ochre
Flash o' Pink add 3% rutile and 10% tin
Warm White add 10% tin and 2% Red Iron Oxide
Beige add 10% tin and 4% Red Iron Oxide
Liz Quackenbush Maiolica Glaze
Cone 04 Maiolica Glaze
FRIT 3124-------------------140
OM4 BALL--------------------14
ZIRCOPAX -------------------20
FRIT3110--------------------20
BENTONITE-------------------10
SILICA----------------------35
THE GLAZE SHOULD BE MIXED UP VERY THICK...JUST BARELY FLUID, LIKE A MELTED MILK SHAKE. If it is mixed too thin it will sink like a rock. If mixed too thick the air will not be released and the pin holes will still be present. Mix it dry and then sieve in 60 or 80 mesh and put the lid on and call it a day. The Glaze should sit for at least a week before you use it so all the air is released and you don't get crazy pin holes.
K Have Fun!
Monday, October 15, 2012
Tuesday, October 9, 2012
A poem by Wendell Berry
The Real Work
It may be that when we no longer know what to do
we have come to our real work,
and that when we no longer know which way to go
we have come to our real journey.
The mind that is not baffled is not employed.
The impeded stream is the one that sings.
Thursday, October 4, 2012
Decal Mania!!!!
A little information about decals before our demo tomorrow...
Decals have been around for a really long time (first used around 1750). They were historically made from copper plate etchings then transferred to tissue paper or glue which was then applied to pots in a long labor intensive process. Fortunately things are much easier now. There are still quite a few kinds of decals (ceramic, glass, midrange, in glaze, enamel, metallic, etc.) most of which are waterslide and easy to apply and to have made. If you want more information on types of decals try this website...http://www.ceramicdecals.org.
We're going to be using iron decals which are technically 'in glaze' type decals. They fire at a much higher temperature than most ceramic decals so they melt into the glaze rather than sitting on the surface. Iron decals can be printed on most HP laser jet printers. They generally fire between cone 010 and 7, and the color will change depending on the temperature. Iron decals will generally be brown, sepia, or purplish, but you should test them to see how hot the decals from your printer need to be to get the color you want.
You can use any photo or document program to design your decals. cram the images together on a sheet to save paper and money. You'll need to buy special decal paper to use in your printer which can be purchased at www.belldecal.com. Your paper will have instructions on how to print.
Once you've printed your decals let the ink dry and you can use them like any manufactured waterslide decals.
If you want colored decals your best bet is to order them. Bell decal is a good resource for this as well. They can make any image, photo, or original piece of artwork into a decal sheet. You can also order full sheets of color and cut out your own shapes. These decals are applied the same way as the iron decals, but fire much lower (generally between 022 and 017).
If you want to follow the rules and have a really clean decal you want to bisque and glaze the surface first. a white or clear surface is best if you don't want the color distorted. If you want to get crazy you can apply the decals to greenware or bisque ware without glaze. You can put glaze, sig, or underglaze over top of the decals once they are fired, I would suggest firing them first though.
Yay! Have Fun!
Decals have been around for a really long time (first used around 1750). They were historically made from copper plate etchings then transferred to tissue paper or glue which was then applied to pots in a long labor intensive process. Fortunately things are much easier now. There are still quite a few kinds of decals (ceramic, glass, midrange, in glaze, enamel, metallic, etc.) most of which are waterslide and easy to apply and to have made. If you want more information on types of decals try this website...http://www.ceramicdecals.org.
We're going to be using iron decals which are technically 'in glaze' type decals. They fire at a much higher temperature than most ceramic decals so they melt into the glaze rather than sitting on the surface. Iron decals can be printed on most HP laser jet printers. They generally fire between cone 010 and 7, and the color will change depending on the temperature. Iron decals will generally be brown, sepia, or purplish, but you should test them to see how hot the decals from your printer need to be to get the color you want.
You can use any photo or document program to design your decals. cram the images together on a sheet to save paper and money. You'll need to buy special decal paper to use in your printer which can be purchased at www.belldecal.com. Your paper will have instructions on how to print.
Once you've printed your decals let the ink dry and you can use them like any manufactured waterslide decals.
If you want colored decals your best bet is to order them. Bell decal is a good resource for this as well. They can make any image, photo, or original piece of artwork into a decal sheet. You can also order full sheets of color and cut out your own shapes. These decals are applied the same way as the iron decals, but fire much lower (generally between 022 and 017).
If you want to follow the rules and have a really clean decal you want to bisque and glaze the surface first. a white or clear surface is best if you don't want the color distorted. If you want to get crazy you can apply the decals to greenware or bisque ware without glaze. You can put glaze, sig, or underglaze over top of the decals once they are fired, I would suggest firing them first though.
Wednesday, October 3, 2012
Monday, October 1, 2012
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)